Radnóti’s most famous poem, completed less than a year before his death in 1944. “I cannot know what this landscape means to others,” begins what is perhaps Mr.

According to a 2022 report by the Artistic Freedom Initiative, Hungarian artists and institutions that oppose Fidesz “find it increasingly difficult - and some speculate even futile - to earn state support without yielding to governmental demands and thus compromising their artistic or personal integrity.” Even the existence of progressive community centers - like Auróra, a social hub that offers a bar and a concert venue and has rented office space to N.G.O.s that focus on marginalized groups - suggests a kind of political and intellectual tolerance.Īnd yet behind many of the organizations that are out of step with the ruling party’s politics is a story of instability - regarding funding, legal protection, reputation. legislation, the Budapest Pride march has drawn huge crowds in recent years, and L.G.B.T.Q.-friendly venues are on the rise. In part as a response to the passage of recent anti-L.G.B.T.Q. If Hungary has become the European Union’s most defiant state, then Budapest has become Hungary’s most defiantly liberal enclave - to the extent that short-term visitors to the city might easily miss the signs of a tense political environment. I sensed some of the troubling undercurrents within minutes of my arrival, when László, on our drive from the airport, began echoing Kremlin-friendly conspiracies about the war in Ukraine, which have been widely disseminated via the state-owned media and pro-government news outlets. The influence of his autocratic tendencies has also seeped into the country’s civic and cultural life, leading to the expulsion of a liberal university and affecting the leadership and offerings at theaters and museums. Hungary’s prime minister, Viktor Orbán, now the longest serving elected leader in Europe, has steadily consolidated power by rewriting the Constitution, overhauling election laws to favor his Fidesz party, undermining the independence of the courts and bringing most of the country’s media under the control of his political allies. Once considered the most entrepreneurial and Western-friendly of the former Eastern Bloc nations, it has, of late, become a poster child of nationalism, illiberalism and the erosion of democratic values, offering a political vision that has been emulated in Poland and admired by populist figures in France, Italy and the United States.

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